#109 A stroll with St Leo of Catania

Winding painfully slowly down the steep steps outside the Church, the statue of Saint Leo is carried over the grey lava cobblestone streets, glancing over at the ruins of Sinagra's Castello.

The bell tower clock and partial ruins remain of the medieval castle fort, which has been a stable part of the Sinagrese landscape for generations. 

The Saint's procession is evocative of hundreds of other such celebrations throughout the peninsula, Europe and the world in an ancient tradition filled with colour, music and celebratory culture.

Saint Leo marches down Via Roma, the central commercial hub of the old town. The historic town centre is now dotted with hollowed-out hovels and decaying ancient palaces slowly filling with pigeon faeces. And the odd newly restored buildings are in a flurry of colours like a chameleon set in reverse. 

This first leg of his procession is taken by dearly departed Sinagrese on their final cortege to the cemetery during their funerals.

On his May feast day celebration, the mood is much less sombre, and the procession is punctuated by bursts of music from the local brass band.

Chiming bells and sonic booms from cannon shots punctuate the various turns on this wandering passegiata around Sinagra and its surrounding hamlets.

Feast days usually coincide with the dates of the Saint's birth, death or another significant event, such as a miracle associated with the town. Down Via Veneto, heading towards the main square, the urban scape becomes less steep until reaching a plateau in the Piazza San Teodoro. 

Continuing straight ahead, St Leo reaches the beginning of Via Umberto Primo, the old civic centre of Sinagra.

At the beginning of the street, there is the antique Church of the Crucifix, with its bell tower dating back to the medieval period. 

This Church is intriguing, much smaller than St Michael the Archangel, and ultimately more suggestive. The locals call it 'the church of the convent,' which indicates the existence of a former religious community.

The Nebrodi area has a history as a home to many religious orders and now lost convents dating back to the Crusades. The Carmelite community was born in Messina in twelve hundred and thirty-eight after arriving from the Holy Land and gradually increased through Europe.

Saint Leo makes his way past the Palazzo Salleo, arriving at the end of Via Umberto Primo. He finishes the last part of his full circle around the town. Heading back up into the Church of St Michael the Archangel, where he is eased back carefully into his comfortable spot at the apex of Sinagra.

The people still wish him a world of good and are content to follow in the footsteps of Saint Leo, giving their praise with one last cry: "E viva San Leone!"

Children ride at the Saint's feet as their parents stuff money into an offertory box. Or discretely hand envelopes into the hands of those moving the statue. Most passengers on the procession are toddlers and cry when confronted by the seemingly monstrous St Leo, complete with a long beard. 

The children's anxiety is whipped up to a climax by the confusion of men yelling during the procession.

The real St Leo of Catania lived during the Byzantine occupation of Sicily in the year seven hundred. His popularity and work with the poor led him to become Bishop of Catania in seven hundred and sixty.

During Saint Leo's Bishophood at Catania, a famous magician named Heliodorus bewitched people with fake miracles and illusions. St. Leo urged the sorcerer to repent his heresies and return to the Church.

During church services given by the bishop, Heliodorus entered the Church and created a disturbance with his fake miracles and magic tricks.

Witnessing how the people came under the spell of the sorcerer's charisma, Leo realised the time for gentle persuasion had passed. He emerged from the altar and led the magician out of the Church into the square. Saint Leo forced him to obey his actions and commanded a bonfire to be built. 

The Saint wanted to prove faith was more powerful than witchcraft and challenged the magician to jump into the blaze. As they stood together in the fire, Heliodorus was burnt alive. At the same time, Leo remained unharmed, protected by the power of God.

This spectacular miracle brought great fame to Saint Leo during his lifetime. As his popularity increased, his Christian love for the poor and the homeless also became well known. His charitable work with the sick gave him the skills to treat various illnesses, and he became known for his miracles.

It is the bonfire confrontation with Heliodorus, echoed in the climax of a nighttime Easter Sunday procession at Sinagra, which acts out the final moments of the encounter. In the parade, the Saint's statue is run across the town's main bridge, which is lit up with pyrotechnics; under the red glow of the fireworks, St Leo looks more sinister than saintly.

My grandfather, originally from the nearby town of Raccuja, constantly poked fun at the Sinagrese, who always ran around with their Saint. Before there was a bridge over the river, they would carry him over, and the more devoted would be barefoot. They still run with him on Easter night, and then, during the day of his main celebration on the 8th of May, they run him down the main road into the principal square. Children can't wait to participate in the Corsa and the procession; teenage boys eagerly wait to carry Saint Leo.

The strength of patron saints like St Leo has taken many saints on different journeys worldwide. Today, every major city and small town in Sicily has a saintly protector, from St Rosalia at Palermo, St Agata of Catania to the smaller villages like Sinagra that celebrate their Saint's feast day. 

In elaborate processions, in honour of the Saint's guidance to the city and its people. Hundreds of other saints are followed by Sicilian towns and cities, whose stories are as fascinating as the celebrations themselves.

Sometimes, I talk about Sicily.

Other times, I talk about whatever is on my mind.

My writing is always lightning, the mental load and sharing something of my thoughts with you.

I hope you enjoy the randomness of  A Load Off My Mind.